Ungrounded fear
The waves were tricky this morning. Hard to read.
The current strong. My confidence tanked, for no real reason, as it often does in tricky conditions.
It is this, for no real reason, that I consider.
I was not aware of my inner chat. It was not like I was saying to myself that it was hard, or I could not do this.
But I noticed the fear. Fear without the mass stream of inner dialogue. Just fear.
It is such an interesting thing, this type of ungrounded fear.
It just is.
The wonderful thing about surfing is that no two surfs are anywhere near the same. Everything is different.
I can step out of the water and put aside the fear and lack of confidence, knowing that when I step back in, I step into different in every way.
The fear is entirely in that moment.
The process is then to leave the water and leave the session behind.
I know the fear comes from lack of experience.
The journey of surfing is long. The lessons everywhere.
There is such richness in this.
Photo Taken December 9th 2023
