And the gods are laughing

Just after first light we enter the surf. The routine now four days and steady.

My first wave. Not fully present. Too rushed. Still dark. 

I get ahead of myself. I get ahead of the wave. Over the falls I go. My board flips back and hits me hard on the bridge of my nose. 

Hard. 

Eyes water from the pain.

Rattled. Some minor blood. 

Back on the horse, so to speak. But nervous. We stay in the surf for two hours.

A few hours later, two massive black eyes. Fortunately no pain. Just a very swollen face.

I recall a few days earlier writing about confidence and pacing. 

Did I write this for myself? The gods are laughing. 

I send an image of my face – it is pretty bad – to my daughter. She says I am accident-prone. 

Perhaps. 

Or perhaps it is because at my age I insist on remaining active, participating in sports like surfing that are dangerous. 

Heck, going up and down stairs can be dangerous. 

I want to live. Not stay safe. 

I did also write about Tom Cruise doing a stunt at the Olympics. My vintage.

I am not foolish. I do mitigate risk. 

But I refuse to go gently into that good night.

Photo Taken August 17th 2024