Swell is up

After a few days of oceanic calm, the swell is up this morning. Great. 

And. 

It made it the busiest lineup since we have been here. Crazy. Dangerous. To the point where it was no fun. Too many people who have no idea what they are doing. Too many people with zero manners or surf etiquette. A real-lived example of a win-lose game. 

The combination of ignorance and righteous arrogance kills and injures – most often the innocent. 

The extreme lack of consideration was on display. The ugly side of humanity in a beautiful sport. The more belligerent, the more risk-taking, the loudest and often the most foolish, win the wave. 

This is not why I surf; to recreate the world of exploitation, taking, and rudeness. 

I surf because of the beauty, being in the ocean, learning a new skill, and being with my love. I surf because of the camaraderie of others who love the sport and yet also come from the oceanic abundance and generosity—the infinite game.

Indeed, I am a champion for the infinite game. No losers. I care not your race, religion, gender or sexual preference. Give me dignity, respect, consideration, curiosity and an open heart.

I am again conflicted. I love travel and adventure. But tourism is losing its glamour. Too many people. Too many people who are so self-centred that they would walk over you if they could, seeing you more like a bug on a windscreen. 

The local people are beautiful. The island is beautiful. It is the foreigners and the demand for more, more more that seeds the fracture. 

That polarity again. Finding an equilibrium. An ecology that considers this before they open the floodgates to tourism and growth is welcome. But that wisdom is rare.

Photo Taken August 26th 2024