A swamp of storms

It stormed all night. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning. A respite from the heat. 

We were at the beach after sunrise, later than usual. After gusty onshore winds for days, messing the surf up, we were surprised to see amazing surf conditions. Clearly not on anyone else’s radar, as there was no one out. 

But it was raining heavily, and there was lightning. We debated. Risk surfing in a lightning storm? Or stay safe.

We took the risk. In thirty minutes, we caught more waves than I would usually in over an hour. Just the two of us. Not a single person joined us. 

Just before the winds turned again, turning the water to mush.

What a joy. One of my favouite ways to be out on the water. The skys grey, rain, and the waves so beautiful. And solitary. Beautiful bliss.

That window of time. Right time. 

Time, and karma. Such an unpredictable beast. Two weeks ago, if I had been two seconds earlier or later, I would still have a drivable car. For many, one or two seconds carries more consequence than a written-off car. Life and death. One second. Yet we must refuse to overthink it. To get trapped in the cycle of – if only. 

It is. 

These last few weeks have been a swamp of storms. Unpredictable. Heavy. Relentless. All not in my control.

I have only to control my response. Some moments great, others pretty bad. 

It is. 

This morning, we took a risk of being struck by lightning to get a sweet moment in perfect solitary waves. It was healing.

Photo Taken March 5th 2025, Article published December 23rd 2025