Long time readers will know I am learning to surf. I have been a dedicated pool swimmer for nearly thirty years, so I have the arm strength for surfing.
I love to learn new skills. I love being out in nature. My pool swimming is outdoors all year round. I love movement more than sitting. Formal mediation has never been my game.
But waiting, watching for a wave…being 100% in the present moment…this is my form of mediation.
Distance running has saved my sanity countless times. The escape to body, the elements, and the constant communion with my physical capacity as a foil to the noise of surviving as a single mother, an entrepreneur, and an edge dweller, has given me space and objectivity to assess my own circumstances.
When Tony and I go out in the surf, as we did this morning, it is us, the waves, the elements, and the challenge of it. Everything else falls away.
It becomes only about the one thousand things to learn, adapt to, and change with each different wave.
Added to this a glorious sunrise, and yesterday being surrounded by a pod of about twenty dolphins, bold enough to come right up to us. Me squealing with delight.
Plus the occasional turtle, many fish, birds…
Many many tumbles, sand everywhere….and a catastrophe for hair.
The dance with fear as the wave curls under me and the precipice seems very high…watching my own process. Till yesterday bailing out on the big ones…finally seizing the moment and popping rather than hesitating, letting the board do its thing. But seizing up the next time…and the next…seeing and embracing my humanness.
After three hours in the water yesterday we talked about how surfing might contribute value to the larger whole.
There is no question it, like my running and swimming, makes me a better person. Balances out my hardness. Gives me the opportunity to reflect and see myself in the face of learning something new. Has me appreciate even more glorious nature and our home planet. Is a place for my love and I to spend shared time doing things that we adore.
Fills me with joy…
And all that, I bring to my life. My school, my church, my spiritual practice.
Photo taken March 14th 2021