The language of waves

It was a beautiful sunrise this morning. I was already in the ocean at first light, witnessing it live, but not able to capture it to share with you.

To start a day beyond the surf break with the dolphins, witnessing the sunrise, catching some waves, is such a gift. My joy is immeasurable. My gratitude transcends words.

I think of the nature of a wave. Every single one is unique. This is a part of what makes surfing such a masterclass in humility. The language of waves. You might get familiar with a particular surf break, with signature waves, then go to another break, and the language and syntax changes. It is the culture of waves in context to place.

In Bali, the waves came across the Indian Ocean, their volume and force immense. It was as if they had something important to say. Dare get caught in them unprepared. To be tossled onto the reef like seaweed.

In my home break the waves are not so thick, not so powerful. And they break on sand, which makes tossling less dangerous.

I think of Nature’s diversity.

Every single snowflake unique. Every single human. Every everything that nature creates. Unique.

How can we not bow in awe?

Photo Taken September 21st 2022

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