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Swell is up

Swell is up

Swell is up After a few days of oceanic calm, the swell is up this morning. Great.  And.  It made it the busiest lineup since we have been here. Crazy. Dangerous. To the point where it was no fun. Too many people who have no idea what they are doing. Too many people...
I am still reeling from this

I am still reeling from this

I am still reeling from this In a conversation with our neighbour at the place we are staying, our neighbour said that perhaps forty thousand deaths in Palestine aren’t enough deaths.  Tony, my partner, wasn’t sure he heard this correctly, as it was a shocking...
More context

More context

More context We can almost always do with more context. Our perspective is always partial.  After my challenging morning in the surf yesterday, I did my usual trick. It was all me and my lack of skill. Yet, as my surf coach Tony pointed out, the waves have changed....