On the folly of maximum effort and going nowhere

I have been going through another one of those steep learning transitions in my surfing.

To catch a wave, you need to be on the board moving faster than the wave; otherwise, it will go under you and leave you behind.

This is about speed and efficiency. Smooth flow, very little resistance. Including the resistance of the mind. 

If you have a big, long board, it is easier because the surface of the board and the water remove much of the resistance. 

The shorter the board, the more efficient and faster you need to be. Because I have stepped down in board size, I have to increase my speed and efficiency in the water.

I have been feeling like I am putting in maximum paddling effort, giving it my all, yet the wave goes out from under me. 

It is not always about effort. We can be working our arses off, but going around in circles. Not making any progress. A definition of insanity. I know this place very well.

Effort does not always equate to reaching your purpose. 

In Taiwan, there are many surf photographers and drone operators taking images of people in the surf. For the first time, I saw myself paddling for a wave, and while I was feeling I was giving maximum effort, the video showed I was going backwards.

It was my technique that was wrong.

At least the right technique paired with maximum commitment and effort. 

I consider other areas in my life where I give my all, and the outcomes are meh. 

Unless I am willing to change something, I simply cannot expect a different result.

How about you? Is there a place you are applying maximum effort, yet going nowhere? 

Interestingly, it was seeing myself in the video that really brought this home. This is why we need strong coaches and mentors on our team. So they can point out what we cannot see. 

Photo Taken October 31st 2025, Article published October 31st, 2025