The relief of spaciousness
The rain fell heavily all night. It was still falling as we paddled out into the surf in the dawn light. At this time of year, first light is 4 AM.
I love surfing in the rain. I love the greys and aquas of the sky and water. Today the water is glassy, and the waves refuse to reveal themselves until they are close.
I adore the quiet of being early, not long before others show up. Yet our home break has become a place of friends.
From my early days of insecurity as a surfer and not knowing anyone, to being comfortable and surrounded by people who cheer each other on.
Insecurity for me means going inside, withdrawing. How lovely that I can now laugh, chat and cheer.
My day has spaciousness – no appointments and a very big, impossible for one-day to-do-list.
Yet the sense of spaciousness after a busy week nourishes me.
Like the vastness of the ocean when I look to the horizon. The spaciousness makes it feel like anything is possible.
I suspect anything is possible.
I do not function when life is wall-to-wall with meetings and activities.
I need that big vast space.
I was thinking this morning, paddling out, how lucky I am to get this time, too early for many, to play, surf, be in nature, sharing it with my love. Before work.
Not a chore. Simple pleasure. Luxurious.
I exhale. And now to play in the field of my work, unstructured and creative.
My being does a little interior tap-dance.
Photo Taken September 19th 2024, Article written November 22nd 2024
