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More context

More context

More context We can almost always do with more context. Our perspective is always partial.  After my challenging morning in the surf yesterday, I did my usual trick. It was all me and my lack of skill. Yet, as my surf coach Tony pointed out, the waves have changed....
And the gods are laughing

And the gods are laughing

And the gods are laughing Just after first light we enter the surf. The routine now four days and steady. My first wave. Not fully present. Too rushed. Still dark.  I get ahead of myself. I get ahead of the wave. Over the falls I go. My board flips back and hits me...